Budapest is one of my favorite cities in Europe. It has a distinctly different feel -a little grittier, a little darker – than what you see in the rest of Western Europe. 

When I went for the second time, I revisited my favorites – and found several more gems. If you have only three to four days in Budapest, these are the spots I’d make sure to see and places I’d definitely want to eat at.

My favorite sights:

There are many, many sights in Budapest and I covered a lot of ground on my two trips to the city. I literally walked dozens of miles and earned many blisters. I loved basically everything, but these sights were ones that I’d never miss:

• Chain Bridge – My very favorite part of the city is a bridge over the Danube river. It sounds odd, I know, but it’s provides an incredible viewpoint for the city and if I go to Budapest a hundred more times, I’ll always go to this point. It’s gorgeous at sunset. And sunrise. And at night. And during the day. You will inevitably walk across this going from Buda to Pest or vice versa and it will inevitably be beautiful.
• Parliament – Do yourself a favor and see this at night. It is so gorgeous lit up.
• Fisherman’s Bastion – Another incredible viewpoint of the city.
• House of Terror Museum – This is not an uplifting experience, but it’s an important one. It goes over Hungary’s history as an occupied country. It’s important to me to understand a country’s past when I’m visiting. Budapest has a lot of history beyond the ruin bars and bathhouses and it’s important to acknowledge that. Just make sure you have something to do after; the experience will otherwise weigh on you for a while.
• Shoes on the Danube – These are a monument/memorial to those who died in occupation. It’s along the river, right in front of the Parliament building, if I’m remembering correctly. I’d put this high on the list of things to do.

Thermal Baths

(AKA, the greatest thing ever:)

I don’t know if you’ve heard, but Hungary is all about thermal baths and Budapest has many of them. It’s exhausting being a tourist and this is the best way to recuperate. If you haven’t been to a bathhouse before, picture large pools the temperature of hot-tubs, ice cold pools to refresh in, saunas, steam rooms and more. It is a dream.

• The Szechenyi baths-  These are the most famous for tourists, but for good reason. They’re beautiful and as tourist friendly as anywhere is in Hungary.
  • My favorite part of this bathhouse, though, is the Thermal Beer Spa. I KNOW, it’s shamefully touristy but it is the most fun.  
• I’ve also gone to the Gellert Spa. Stunning mosaics and beautiful space both indoors and outdoors. Would go again for sure.

Where to eat and drink:

• Drum Cafe – Authentic, delicious Hungarian food and budget friendly. Try the paprika chicken or the borscht. You will leave very full.
• Gozsdu Udvar – I actually have no idea how to describe this spot. It’s a giant building with one main hallway full of tiny, tiny restaurants. One of which is Vicky Barcelona – Definitely not authentic Hungarian – it’s for awesome Spanish tapas.
• Ahoy Chocolate and Lemonade Bar – I know, that’s the least appetizing combination you can think of. But the hot chocolate is to die for and will warm you right up in chilly Hungarian winters.
• Abszolute Palinka– Palinka is the local liquor that will lead you astray. Drink plenty, it’s fun. (This spot for some reason serves pho along with its extensive Palinka menu.)
• Instant – If you haven’t heard of ruin bars yet, don’t worry, you will. Delightfully worn down, quirky and real cheap. Instant is one of the most popular because of the many different rooms and floors that each offer different kinds of music. Go from the Backstreet Boys to Pitbull to the Ramones if you want.
• Szimpla Kert– Another stellar ruin bar. Go, drink, have fun!

You should know:

• The metro and tram systems are not exactly new, but they’re reliable and cover a lot of the city. Be aware of the yellow boxes on the tram that you need to insert your ticket into. It’s slightly confusing and, if you struggle as much as I did, a sympathetic Hungarian might laugh at you and then help you.
• Cards are accepted in many places, but I’d suggest having around 10,000 Hungarian Forint (~$35 USD) on you at all times, as many smaller restaurants are cash only.
• Thank you in Hungarian is “kosonom” but you can also say “kosi!” I don’t think many people make the effort to learn, so you’ll get a surprised smile (or maybe just a nod of approval,) if you try.

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