Before I ended up living in Dublin, it had never been on my list of places to visit. It’s not that I had no interest in going, it just wasn’t on my radar of places I had to go to. I knew about it from movies and books and it seemed beautiful, but I never got swept up in the idea of Dublin – or Ireland for that matter- like I did with other destinations. I don’t think I’m alone in that either. When people take their dream vacations to Europe, they venture to London and Paris. Barcelona and Rome. But Dublin doesn’t seem to end up on the list too often. And that’s an honest shame because the city is incredible. Dublin is quirky. Beautiful. Charming. It’s also a little gritty in an old-school punk rock kind of way, glamorous in a festival-going way, and chaotic in a way that is unique entirely to Ireland. (Especially if you’re around for a Gaelic football match. And if that happens, heaven help you the next day.)

Dublin is a city you cannot miss if you can help it, and these are my recommendations if you only have a few days to see this incredible capital.

The food

The food in Dublin is delicious, increasingly eclectic and hardy enough to withstand any cold – or hangover – Dublin throws your way.

Generally speaking, I recommend the following:

• Fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, and all other tasty food you’ll find in a typical Irish restaurant. All delicious, and I’m genuinely hungry just thinking about it.
• Indian food is just amazing in Dublin. Make sure to give it a try. 
• Food trucks, stalls and farmer’s markets – I’m telling you, Dubliners know food and if you want to try a lot of it, this is the way to go. Just be aware that there aren’t many markets in the winter!

If you want an absolute experience of a meal, head to The Bank. I ended up there entirely by mistake and it’s a bit of a typical tourist move, but I loved it. Get the lamb to share with three kinds of potatoes. You may en up with stretch marks from eating so much, but it’s worth it. Every bite is incredible.

The bars

Pub culture is one of my favorite things about Dublin. While you might arrive in Ireland thinking that every pub looks like an Irish bar anywhere else in the US, that’s only partly true. Just about every pub I went to (and I went to…many to say the least) had a very unique character all its own, and so I always felt like I was discovering something.

My 6 favorite bars and pubs from 6 months in Dublin were:

• Lanigan’s Pub – truly unusual. Like the movie The Labrynth decided it needed a pint or two. Unusual decor, including creepy dolls and broken bicycles give this spot a permanent haunted house kind of vibe. I loved it.
• Liquor Rooms – An incredible cocktail bar that takes the guesswork out of ordering by offering a menu with a key to help you figure out what kind of drink you’ll like. My favorite thing about the bar, though, is that once you walk downstairs and enter into the main room, it feels like you’ve walked into a circus tent. And each room thereafter feels just as unique as the drinks.
• Peruke & Perriwig – Another cocktail bar with stellar drinks – one or two get set on fire, there are old-timey wigs for decor and strange movies are always playing.
• Hairy Lemon – Not nearly as divey as it sounds but surprisingly feels like what I think a bar in a Harry Potter book would be like. When you first step in, your eyes adjust to the dim light offered by the many candles illuminating the bar. Tuck away in the cubbies along the door, warm up from the rain and enjoy one of the few spots in Dublin that has craft beers on tap.
• Kehoe’s – This bar has been in the same family for decades, and it feels like it. Homey with decor that might be your grandma’s, it’s amazing to see a few generations running the pub at once. Cozy, local, perfect for a few pints at any time.
• Mary’s – This pub is right off bustling, hectic Grafton Street, the last place I’d expect to find a replica of old-school pubs, which used to serve as general stores. 

Things to Do!

If I only had a few days in Dublin, this is what I’d prioritize:

• St Stephen’s Green – a gorgeous park in the middle of town. If you can get here on a sunny day, bring a coffee and a book. Or lunch. Or a snack. It doesn’t matter what you bring really, just take in how beautifully green the whole place is. 
• Grafton Street – the aforementioned bustling, touristy street, Grafton street is a pedestrian street full of shops on shops and buskers that really will make you stop in your tracks. You may fall in love. You may not.
• Ha’penny bridge – beautiful vantage point to the city. Conveniently, there are a lot of great bars and restaurants a stone’s throw from Ha’penny Bridge, so this is a good mid-day spot.
• Famine memorial – hauntingly beautiful. Also along the river, not too far from Ha’penny bridge.
• Guinness Storehouse! A MUST (if you drink); this is more than a brewery tour, it’s a full-on multimedia experience of all things Guiness. It also has a bar at the top level with 360 degree views of Dublin. Oh! And the tour comes with a pint at the end of the tour 🙂 
• Distilleries – there are several distilleries to visit in Dublin, but I never found that the experience was half as fun or engaging as the tour of the Guinness Storehouse. Unless you have a bit of spare time, or REALLY like whiskey, I’d shelf this.

A few notes:

• The Irish are unbelievably kind. If you get turned around and need a hand, just ask. 
• Dublin is a perfect place to start or end a trip in Europe. There are countless flights in and out of Dublin every day and courtesy of Aer Lingus and Ryan Air, they are pretty affordable (even if Dublin isn’t.) 
  • If you don’t care to tough it out on a Ryan Air flight, I love and recommend Aer Lingus. It’s a pretty nice airline that I flew often around Europe on long weekends.
• Dublin is also, of course, a perfect point from which to travel around the rest of Ireland. The Wicklow Mountains, Dalkey and Howth each take about an hour to get to and if you want to travel a bit further, you could do day trips to Galway, Cork or even Belfast in Northern Ireland.

• Music! If music isn’t one of the first things that comes to mind when you think of Ireland, get your head right. Irish music is fun, but live bands are even better, and it’ll never be hard to find live music. Go to The Temple Bar (but not necessarily IN The Temple Bar;) the whole surrounding area is packed with tourists and live music. It’s worth the fuss.
• Sports! It’s really something else to go to a football or rugby match in Ireland. One of the worst hangovers of my life was after watching a Gaelic Football match…at a bar. I wasn’t even at the damn match. Dubliners are damn loyal to their teams and drink in both celebration and commiseration. 

Don’t miss Dublin because you’re tempted by other parts of Europe. Yes, there are many beautiful European cities. But Dublin is incredibly unique. It has a feel of joy and a little angst. Depth and levity. And you will eat well and drink well, and get the best introduction to the Emerald Isle you could ever ask for.